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PART 3: Knots & Lashings
Knots have been created so that they may perform a
certain job effectively. A good knot is easy to tie and just as easy
to untie, does not slip under strain and can be relied upon. There
are only seven basic knots in use, these knots have been tried and
trusted by those who use knots constantly in their working and
social life, such people as sailors, truckers, soldiers, and dock
workers. They are the reef knot, the bowline, the sheet bend,
fisherman's knot, clove hitch, round turn and two half hitches and
the timber hitch. If you can tie these knots correctly then
certainly you will be on your way to becoming a competent rope worker.
To become proficient at tying knots constant practice is necessary.
This is best done by using a piece of rope rather than string. While
tying the knot, the feel of the knot and how your hands move in its
construction is as much part of the process of learning to tie, as
is the watching of the knot tying. Your ultimate aim should be to be
able to tie the knot in the dark, behind your back, half way up a
tree or on a mountain top in a snowstorm.
Some points on ropes
Store all rope in a dry place
Dry all ropes before putting them away
As far as possible do not drag ropes along the
ground or through rivers where the fibres of the rope can be
damaged.
Inspect ropes carefully before and after use for damage, rot and
mildew.
Whip or spice all your ropes before they are used to
prolong there life
It is a good idea to label each rope, with its length, size, use and
age.
Rope is measured by its circumference, not its thickness.
When you tie knots pull them tight, a knot only becomes effective
when it is tightened.
Basic Knots
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 Overhand
knot
This is one of the basic turns in knotting and also the
simplest of the end knots used to prevent slipping. They
maybe tied in the end or standing part of the rope to check
it from sliding through a block, hole, or part of another
knot.
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Figure of eight knot
This knot can be used as an end knot as in the overhand
knot. When made with a doubled rope it will form an non slip
loop. A knot such as this is used in climbing to secure
ropes.
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Reef knot
The reef knot is one of the most popular and useful knots
for joining two ends of rope together. Because this is a
very neat and flat knot it is very useful for tying the ends
of bandages.
Surgeon's Knot
The surgeon's knot is like the reef knot except that it has
an extra turn as the second crossing is made. This extra
turn provides extra friction in the make up of the knot
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 Sheet
bend
The sheet bend is the most commonly used general purpose
knot at sea and on land. It does not damage the rope, is
easy to tie and untie.
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 Clove
hitch
The clove hitch is used to fix a rope to a post and is a
widely used knot in pioneering. It consists of two half
hitches one placed behind the other and in this way it can
be slipped over the end of a spar. This hitch will take an
outwards or a downward strain without slipping.
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 Bowline
The bowline has been called the king of knots. It will never
slip or jam if properly made and , thus, is excellent for
tying around a person in a rescue.
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 Round
turn and two half hitches
A useful knot for attaching a rope to an upright, spar or
ring. It moors boats safely and will support loads of any
description. If this hitch is to remain in place for some
time you should stop or seize the ends with sisal to prevent
slipping.
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 Timber
hitch
This is an important hitch, especially for dragging,
lifting, or lowering a heavy object such as a log. It will
hold firm so long as there is a steady pull, slacking and
jerking may loosen it. The timber hitch is also useful in
pioneering when two timbers are 'sprung' together. (See
diagonal lashing). It is useful to tie a simple hitch near
the front end of the object being dragged to act as a guide.
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 Fisherman's
knot
The fisherman's knot is used to join two sections of line or
rope together. It is tied using two over hand knots. It is a
useful knot for tying fishing line together, but is also
used by climbers for joining sections of rope and tape
together.
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Climber's
knots
Prusik Knot
The prusik knot is a climbers device for attaching slings to
rope in such a way that they slide when the knot is loose,
but seize and hold solid under a sideways load. It is used
as a safety devise when abseiling down rock faces and is
also employed with two stirrups for climbing up a rope.
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 Italian
hitch
This hitch used in conjunction with a karabiner is used as a
method of belaying. The rope passes around a karabiner so as
to arrest a falling climber by locking up. It can also be
used to play out or take up tension as required.
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 Figure
of eight loop
The figure of eight loop is a widely used knot in climbing.
It is easy to tie and offers a secure loop that can be
attached to belay points and karabiners. The knot can also
be used to secure a climbing rope to a climber. This is done
by making a simple figure of eight knot ( see basic knots )
and following the course of this knot with the end of the
rope. The knot is pulled to secure. Because the knot is so
distinctive it can be easily checked by team leaders before
abseiling etc.
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Lashings
Pioneering structures are built using a series of knots know as
lashings. Lashing use a method of 'wrapping' the rope around the
spars, this 'wrapping' is called binding. The binding of the spars
coupled with frapping - binding between the spars so as to tighten
the bindings - create the lashing. There are four types of lashing -
square, diagonal, sheer, tripod. Each lashing has a specific use and
its strengths are best realised by using the correct lashing at each
stage of the project.
When lashing spars together it's important to use ropes of the
correct thickness and length. For staves and spars up to 30 mm in
diameter, use sisal. For spars up to 75mm in diameter use light
rope.
As to length, 1 meter of
rope for each 25mm of the combined diameter of the spars. For
example, when using timbers of 75mm - 100mm spars you will need
approx. 7 meters of rope per lashing.
Square lashing
The square lashing is used whenever spars cross at right angles to
each other. There is three common types of lashings used in this
way. The traditional square lashing, the Japanese square lashing,
and the Norwegian square lashing. Each have there own merits
however, it is easier to tie the Japanese and Norwegian lashings. It
is debatable as to the difference in strengths of each lashings as
there are too many factors at play to do a comparative study. Such
factors as the type of spars used and the friction that is created
between the spars, the knot maker and his/her personal strength in
which to tighten the knot and the design of the structure used. So
whichever one you use is a matter of personal choice.
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 Traditional
square lashing
This lashing is started by tying a clove hitch to the
upright spar under the spar crossing it. The lashing is then
bound as shown completing 4 - 5 turns and with the bindings
side by side. Frapping should then be applied between the
spars so as to tighten the bindings. The lashing is finished
with a clove hitch around the cross spar.
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Japanese lashing
This lashing is applied by halving your lashing rope and
placing a loop around the upright spar below the cross spar.
The two ropes are then bound around the spars in the same
method as the tradition lashing except the double rope is
used. When the frapping has to be applied the double rope is
split and working each end frapping is applied by crossing
over each rope so forming the frapping. One of the
advantages of frapping this way is that you are able to get
the frapping tighter because you are pulling against each
other. The lashing is finished by tying a reef knot in the
two ends of the lashing rope.
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 Norwegian
Lashing
The Norwegian method of lashing again uses a doubled rope.
In this lashing however we use the method of pulling against
each other used in the frapping of the Japanese method
throughout the lashing process. The lashing is finished with
a reef knot to tie the two end together.
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 Diagonal
lashing
The diagonal lashing is used to 'spring' two spars
together that do not touch where they cross. Begin with a
timber hitch around both spars . Tighten it to draw the two
spars together. Three or four binding turns are made around
one fork , four more around the other fork. The turns should
be beside each other not on top of each other. A number of
frapping should be made between the spars to tighten up the
lashing bindings. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch.
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Sheer lashing
The sheer lashing is used to lash to spars together that will ultimately
be spread apart to form a shear legs which are used in a number of
pioneering projects. This lashing can also be used to join two spars
together so as to give you a longer spar. When the lashing is used
in this way you need to tie two lashings one at each end of the
joint. The lashing is made by making a clove hitch around one of the
spars and then binding the two spars together by a number of turns
side by side, usually about eight turns. When the binding is
complete, a number of frapping are tied between the spars, finishing
the lashing with a clove hitch around the second spar. You can now
open the spars to form your sheer legs.
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 Tripod
lashing
The tripod lashing is used to create a tripod with three
spars. Start the lashing by placing the three spars side up
side ends to ends butts to butts. Start with a clove hitch
on one of the outside spars and weave the rope around the
spars in a figure of eight motion. There should have eight
or so bindings side by side before you should apply a number
of frapping between each spar. Finish the lashing with a
clove hitch on the opposite outside spar. The three spars
should then be lifted upright before the legs are spread.
This lashing unlike other must not be oversight otherwise it
will not be possible to spread the legs correctly.
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For more information on Knots and multimedia guides
on how to tie them, please visit our comprehensive Knotting
Guide.
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