Satisfy that burning desire...
There are two kinds of campfires in this world: the campfire that you build to enjoy, and the campfire that you build to survive. If you're in the latter situation, your best bet is to carry any one of a number of widely available fire "helpers." Often based on either magnesium shavings or an inflammable paste, these burn at extremely high temperatures, which can ignite wet material in an emergency. The techniques described below are still valid... but under really wet conditions, don't depend on natural materials.
The following is a guide to building a fire without any such "helper" materials. If survival isn't the issue, all you need is a source of fire, a bit of patience and some consideration for your environment.
Before You Begin
Most importantly, remember that fire is destructive if not controlled. Check that fires are permitted in your campsite, and keep water handy. Also, be aware that deforestation is a problem in many areas. Use as little gathered wood as possible, and consider bringing in your own firewood if you're not backpacking.
That being said, it's guaranteed that you'll deeply impress your companions if you can build a one-match fire. You'll succeed by following several strategies. Choose the driest, least green materials available, build the fire starting with small pieces and moving to large, carefully control the ventilation, and politely ignore any misguided suggestions from casual observers.
Prepare the site
Fire will ignite any flammable materials underneath it. Building yours on top of a metal firepan is the surest way to control it. In any case, you'll minimize the risk by clearing an area at least three feet wide of debris and children. If no established firepit is available get down to bare earth, or to rock if you can, and put a ring of stones around it for aesthetics and extra protection (kids love hunting for good rocks).
Consider the wind, and attempt to find an area that's shielded from the strongest gusts. Consider also the possibility of rain, and see if there's a sheltered nook around. But be careful of flammable branches and tree trunks.
Flammable/Inflammable: Although these words sound like opposites, they in fact mean the same thing--that the material referred to is capable of burning. There is a slight distinction: "flammable" is often used in conjuction with stuff that will burn under the right circumstances, while "inflammable" is usually used with stuff that bursts into flames at the slightest provocation. Thus a tree might be called flammable, and a can of gasoline inflammable.
Tinder and kindling: The little bits of flammable (or inflammable) materials use to raise the temperature of a fire to the point where the larger wood will ignite.
Firepan: A metal surface (usually round) used as the foundation of a campfire. You can buy them in outdoors equipment stores, or improvise one: folks have been known to use old hubcaps, pizza platters or trashcan lids. Just remember that the metal won't be the same after it's been under a flame for several hours (so don't use a hubcap pried off of Dad's Lexus).
Gather the fuel for the fire
You need three types of materials to build a fire: small stuff (tinder and kindling), medium stuff (half-inch diameter sticks and one-inch diameter sticks), and large stuff (large chunks of wood).
Small stuff:
- Tinder is very lightweight and dry material that will burn quickly and ignite the heavier materials. Examples of tinder are pine needles, grass, leaves, paper, and thin tree bark. In areas where birch bark is available, check around for fallen logs for this excellent tinder fuel. Don't strip any birch bark off an upright tree, even if it looks dead. This can kill a tree by exposing it disease, insects, and dehydration.
- Kindling: A large supply of tinder and kindling is the foundation of a good fire. Search around the base of shrubs and small trees for dead branches. Don't break any piece of wood off an upright tree, even if it looks dead. It's bad for the tree and the wood won't burn well.
Medium stuff:
- Half-inch and one-inch diameter sticks: These will be used to build fire-establishing structures. Search under larger shrubs and trees for the medium stuff. The same guidelines for gathering kindling apply here: leave the upright trees alone. Break longer branches into six- or eight-inch pieces with this technique: rest one end of the stick at a 45 degree angle to the ground. Grasp the stick about 16 inches from the end on the ground, or simply rest the top end against a large tree. Stand with the ground end of the stick just outside one of your feet. Lift that foot and stomp down on the branch. It should snap with a satisfying sound. If it doesn't, try again, perhaps with your hand a little higher on the stick, or kick a little lower towards the ground.
Large stuff:
- Large chunks of wood: If you're in an established campsite, large chunks of wood will be available for purchase. Aside from the convenience of this option, it also conserves the limited and highly used resources of established campsites. If you're far away from civilization and established campsites, look around for fallen trees. If you have an axe, split the wood into chunks about the size of your arm or a little larger. Avoid any mushy wood--this has rotted and won't burn well.
Take extra care in gathering the fuel. Forage some distance from your campsite to avoid denuding the site. Aside from natural beauty concerns, these materials form a part of the local ecology. The dry leaves and grass at the base of the tree decompose and enrich the soil, which makes for healthy, disease- and insect-resistant trees. When too much of this material is removed, it has an impact on the forest ecosystem.
Place the tinder and build the teepee
Put a handful of tinder in a compact pile (a little bigger than a golf ball) on the ground. This will be the heart of two simple structures: a "log cabin" built directly over a "tepee." Both of these surround the tinder.
Using the kindling, build a small tepee around the tinder. Gaps will form naturally as you place the twigs. That's okay, you'll be dropping a match through one of those gaps.
Build the cabin
Now you'll take up the dry sticks and branches that are about 1/2" diameter. Build a cabin, with no roof, around the teepee:
- Place two sticks on the ground parallel to each other and around the teepee. Form a square by placing another two sticks on top of the first two sticks. The sticks will overlap at the corners (see picture).
- Then place four more sticks directly on top of the first four. Again, the corners should overlap. But this time make the square a little smaller.
- Repeat this a few times, until the teepee is loosely surrounded.
- Put a loose roof on top. Remember to leave several half-inch gaps in it that match the gaps in the walls. With this design, the flame will be able to "breathe." You should still be able drop a match in between the gaps.
Place the larger stuff
In this step you'll create a "chimney" effect by the careful placement of one-inch diameter sticks and large chunks. This will give the young fire a good flow of air, which will get it burning well.
- Put one of those good-sized chunks of wood right next to the cabin. Put another one on the other side of the cabin.
- If you have one chunk of wood, lean some one-inch diameter sticks against the chunk and over the cabin. If you have two chunks, rest the sticks on the two chunks, suspended over the cabin.
Step back and survey the area. Make sure that there are no live, overhanging branches that are in danger of being set on fire.
Spark it up
Wait for the breeze to die down, if there is one. Shield the area from the wind with your body if you have to. Assuming you've collected solid (not rotted), dry materials, you should be able to light the fire with a single match.
Kneel down and strike a match. Shielding it from the wind, drop it through the gaps onto the tinder inside the tepee. If this is not possible, sneak the match through the bottom side of the cabin. Once the larger sticks are burning, you can let the other folks gradually and gently place larger material on. To encourage a struggling fire, kneel down beside it. Inhale deeply, and blow gently and steadily along the ground and into the base of the fire.
Extinguish the fire
When you're ready to sleep or leave the campsite, make sure that fire is fully extinguished. Use generous amounts of water or whatever other liquid is available (hint, hint). If you're in the backcountry and you're far from a water source, throw many shovelfuls of dirt on the fire. Avoid using moist, rich-looking dirt with decomposed leaves and wood--this material is inflammable. Scrape up a bit of ground with a stick or trowel, checking for smouldering bits of material under the dead coals.
Put your hand on the surrounding ground to feel for heat. Believe it or not, half-extinguished campfires can smoulder and continue burning under the surface, especially if years of compressed debris are present.